There is a simple way to be sure that your hook and eye closure fits onto your bra precisely. It can even be done after most of the sewing is complete! If you have my book you already know this handy tip and I make sure to teach this technique in all my workshops!
Because bra kit materials come in varying sizes, it is a good idea to start by examining your pattern and your supplies before you cut your fabric. Among other things, you want to compare the height of your hook and eye closure to what the pattern allows. The area you are measuring on the pattern is the finished width of the center back as shown below on the bra band.
If there is a difference between your hook and eye closure height and what the pattern allows, just mark your closure height and redraw a smooth scooping line that meets this mark. Shown below is a decrease in height followed by an illustration of an increase in height at the center back.
Even with pre-sewing adjustments, sometimes things can get a bit off in the sewing process! It can be a slippery stretchy fabric or just a bobble starting or stopping the elastic attachment that changes the finished height of your bra band. Whatever the reason, you should get in the habit of checking that rear closure height of the bra before you finish the scoop of the band.
To check the bra closure height, hold up the hook or eye piece, depending on the side (you need to check both sides!), to make sure it will fit on nicely onto the bra.
If the area is too tall for the closure, the scoop elastic or fold over elastic will need to be attached lower. After marking the new lower point, cut a new back scoop that goes through that marking.
If the area is too short – also a problem – the trim needs to be attached so that it adds height to the closure area. To find that point, hold up the elastic or trim you will be using to the scoop area and adjust the trim positioning until you have added enough height to the band to attach to the closure. Now mark the point below the trim at the center back and use that mark, not the edge of the fabric as the guide for attaching the scoop trim.
Of course, if you forget to make these adjustments, you can always make a custom size closure using my Leverett sewing pattern!