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Where to source materials for the Mystic bra sewing pattern by Orange Lingerie

Where to Find Materials for the Mystic Bra

Where to source materials for the Mystic bra sewing pattern by Orange Lingerie

Since our new Mystic bra sewing pattern requires some different materials than our other bra patterns, I thought a post on sourcing the materials was in order! In this post I will review the materials used to make the Mystic bra and tell you where you can find them online.

 

FOAM CUPS

Introducing the Mystic Bra Pattern #bramaking #bramakingpattern #sewingpattern #bradiy #brapattern #foamcups

At the core of this pattern are seamless, pre-formed foam cups. When looking for foam cups, you are looking for a cup with enough structure so that they instantly spring back to shape when pressed and do not collapse under the weight of a mobile phone when placed on top of the domed cup.

You want to avoid any sort of cup “insert” or cups marketed as “sew in cups”. These inserts are often not a complete bra cup and do not have the necessary structure to form a bra cup on their own.

I like to use the “angled” foam cups from Bra-makers Supply. I also like their “push up angled” foam cups. They really do give you a boost! Both of these polyester foam cups are firm yet soft so they do not require a lining and they hold up well to washing and wearing. They are also easy to cover with your fabric of choice as directed in the sewing pattern instructions.

Both angled bra cups are sized by the underwire. For example, if you wear a 34B, that size takes a 34 wire and uses a 34 cup. You can use our sister size chart on our sizing page to determine your foam cup size. Just find your size in the table, then look to the first column on the left to find your wire size which is the same as your foam cup size.

 

UNDERWIRES

Bra Making Notions Explained by Orange Lingerie

The Mystic bra has a beautiful low cut center front. You know from reading my prior post about underwires that I generally like to buy them in bulk, in a longer length, and then cut them as necessary to the exact length that I need for a given style.

Often times, you can avoid cutting the underwires if you are willing to raise (or lower) the center front and height of the upper cup. However, raising the height is not an option when using pre-formed foam cups and lowering the center front is inadvisable. Luckily, I found that the “Plunge” underwires from Emerald Erin Bra Shop fit perfectly into the Mystic Bra, no alterations required! I actually ended up ordering a half dozen pairs for my personal use!

 

FABRICS

Where to source materials for the Mystic bra sewing pattern by Orange Lingerie

Cups

For a smooth and seamless cup cover, I recommend a smooth 4-way stretch fabric such as lightweight jersey or swimwear fabric that has around 50% stretch in both directions. The stretchier the fabric, the easier it is to work with to get a completely smooth and seamless result.

Being able to use fun stretchy fabrics for bra making is so liberating and it is truly one of the advantages of the Mystic bra! There are so many fun knit prints and colors. With a little fabric manipulation, you can even use the same stretchy fabric throughout the entire bra as pictured in the lead off for this blog post. See my post of fabric manipulation for the details.

To find the recommended cup covering fabric, I like to start by browsing the bra and lingerie making kits from Merckwaerdigh for fun print and color combinations. Be sure to read the kit description before purchasing, but so far every kit I have ever ordered from her has a “soft and supple stretch fabric” for the bra.

When using the Merckwaerdigh kits, I always use a firmer fabric underneath the stretch fabric for both the side band and bridge and a power net underneath for the band. While her kits do not include those fabrics, her kits do include bra making notions, usually (best for the A to C cup size range). Just add underwires to and your foam cups complete the bra.

Bra-makers Supply also has foam cup bra making kits in both solids and prints. Note, these kits contain only the fabrics and you will need to add on the proper size and color notions kit, underwires and foam cups to complete the bra.

Bra Side Band and Bridge, Lining

Where to source materials for the Mystic bra sewing pattern by Orange Lingerie

You need to use a low-to-no-movement fabric such as tricot for the bridge and side band. These areas need to remain stable and unmoving.

If you are using the stretchy cup covering fabric for the bridge and side band, you will need to stabilize it or layer it on top of a stable fabric. Fabric suitable for layering includes tricot and firm linings with no stretch. You can read our tutorial on manipulating fabric to change its properties here.

Band

Where to source materials for the Mystic bra sewing pattern by Orange Lingerie

As with all our bra patterns, this band is designed for a power net with around 35% stretch. You can adapt the bra band as necessary to accommodate more or less stretch by decreasing and increasing the band respectively. For support, I recommend nothing greater than 50% stretch and for comfort, nothing less than 20%.

When layering a stretch lace or knit fabric on top of power net, be sure the material has more stretch than the power net and take care to align the direction of greatest stretch, so that they match.

I also highly recommend adding 2 inches to the band (add 1 inch to the band pattern piece) whenever you are layering fabrics in that area. Adding a layer of fabric decreases the stretch of the band and it is easy to remove any excess in the final stages of bra construction.

 

I am super excited to see all the beautiful Mystic bras! Be sure to tag them #mysticbra and/or #orangelingerie so I can find them!

 

Where to source materials for the Mystic bra sewing pattern by Orange Lingerie
Where to source materials for the Mystic bra sewing pattern by Orange Lingerie
Where to source materials for the Mystic bra sewing pattern by Orange Lingerie
Where to source materials for the Mystic bra sewing pattern by Orange Lingerie
Introducing the Mystic Bra Pattern #bramaking #bramakingpattern #sewingpattern #bradiy #brapattern

Introducing the Mystic Bra Sewing Pattern!

 

Introducing the Mystic Bra Pattern #bramaking #bramakingpattern #sewingpattern #bradiy #brapatternI am so excited to introduce you to the new Mystic bra sewing pattern! Whether I am fitting students in my workshops, walking through the gym locker room, or just walking down the street, this is the style I see most often in everyday life. It is no surprise that this style has consistently been one of our most requested patterns. I am also happy to say that with the release of the Mystic bra pattern, we give you the ability to make yet another bra wardrobe staple and move one step closer to an entirely handmade wardrobe.

Introducing the Mystic Bra Pattern #bramaking #bramakingpattern #sewingpattern #bradiy #brapattern #foamcups

Using pre-formed foam bra cups, the Mystic bra provides invisible shaping and support underneath even the most fitted garments. Finally, you can make your own beautiful seamless t-shirt bra!

To show you a new bra construction technique, we created this style as a frameless bra. Yes, you can make a frameless foam cup bra! As usual, the pattern contains all the step-by-step instructions with our detailed drawings to guide you through the process of making this style.

One big bonus with this frameless style is the ability to convert the bra to close in the front! Keep an eye out for news from us with the details on that conversion as well as more information on this style.

Introducing the Mystic Bra Pattern #bramaking #bramakingpattern #sewingpattern #bradiy #brapatternNow if you have been following Orange Lingerie for a while, you may recall that in the past I expressed some skepticism on the utility of molded foam cup bras. I was more surprised than anyone when I found myself turning to this exact style to wear under some of my fitted knit tops (e.g. thin semi-transparent t-shirts) and for occasions where any transparency to my body could be inappropriate (e.g. dinner with the in-laws). After repeatedly encountering a selection of solid white, beige and black options in the shops, I knew I needed to create the Mystic bra pattern so I could make a more visually interesting selection of seamless bras, especially as we head into fall and winter.

Introducing the Mystic Bra Pattern #bramaking #bramakingpattern #sewingpattern #bradiy #brapattern

As with our recent bra sewing patterns, the Mystic bra will only be available for A to DD cups in size 32 to 40 bands and B to DD cups for size 30 bands. See our chart of sister sizes if you are looking for additional sizes.

I hope you enjoy the Mystic bra pattern as much as I do! Be sure to tag your makes with #MysticBra and/or #OrangeLingerie so I can find them all. I love seeing everyone’s unique version of our sewing patterns!

Mystic Bra Sewing Pattern by Orange Lingerie
Mystic Bra Sewing Pattern by Orange Lingerie
Mystic Bra Sewing Pattern by Orange Lingerie
Add a cleavage boosting cookie to your bra! #bramaking #brasewing #sewingpattern

How to Add Bust Boosting Foam to Your Bra

Add a cleavage boosting cookie to your bra! #bramaking #brasewing #sewingpattern

My goal with the Lansdowne bra was to create a cleavage enhancing underwire bra. One of my favorite pattern modifications for this bra is to add a foam “cleavage cookie” to give the bust an extra boost! This post includes a tutorial showing you what you need to do to make this fun version of this bra.

Before I dive into the step-by-step instructions, as with any bra pattern modification, I strongly recommend making a toile (a.k.a. a muslin) to test it. Often when working with foam, it is necessary to go up a cup size to accommodate the extra volume that the foam adds to the cup.

Now let’s get started!

There are two parts to making a cleavage cookie. One is the cookie itself and the second is the pocket that will securely hold the cookie in place.

MATERIALS
To make the cookie pocket you need to use a fabric that is thin and stretchy. The pocket must stretch to enable you to insert and remove the cookie and to allow the cookie some movement. I like to use a power net or mesh or a cup lining with stretch in at least one direction. I also like to choose a color that will not stand out in the interior of the bra.

To make the cleavage cookie you will use cut and sew foam. A fat quarter (approximately 18″ x 22″) is plenty for all sizes. Foam comes in many colors and you can use which ever color is the best match for your garment.

Add a cleavage boosting cookie to your bra! #bramaking #brasewing #sewingpattern

from left to right: power mesh, foam, lining

 

PATTERN PIECES

1. POCKET
Using the outer cup pattern piece, draw a horizontal line that intersects with the underarm corner. Now trace that line and around the bottom of the pattern piece. Add ¼” hem line to the horizontal line and label this “Lansdowne Bra Pocket LOWER”. Note the shape of the hem allowance! It needs to completely span the piece when turned to the wrong side of the pocket.

Add a cleavage boosting cookie to your bra! #bramaking #brasewing #sewingpattern

 

Next, trace from the line around the upper part of the pattern piece. Add ½” to the horizontal line at the underarm and then draw in a ¼” hem line. Label this piece “Lansdowne Bra Pocket UPPER”. Again, note the shape of the hem allowance.

Add a cleavage boosting cookie to your bra! #bramaking #brasewing #sewingpattern

For each pattern piece, transfer the stretch arrow to be the same as for the outer cup fabric layer, add your size, the date and the instruction “cut 2 power net or lining”

2. FOAM
To make the pattern for the cleavage cookie, trace an outer cup pattern piece and remove the seam allowances from all sides plus an additional ⅜” from the wire line and underarm areas. Label this “Lansdowne bra cookie outer layer”. To make the next layer, trace inside the outer layer piece by ⅜”. Repeat for additional foam layers. The number of layers depends on cup size you are working with and the effect you want to achieve. For this 34B sample, I was able to create 3 layers of padding.

For each foam layer pattern piece, transfer the stretch arrow to be the same as for the outer cup fabric layer, add your size, the date and the instruction “cut 2 foam”.

CUTTING
Cut pocket pieces as usual matching the stretch direction to that of the original outer cup.

Add a cleavage boosting cookie to your bra! #bramaking #brasewing #sewingpattern

 

For the cookie, foam has very little, if any movement but the stretch direction should also be matched to the original outer cup. Cut and mark the pieces as you usually do for bra making. See my post on accurate cutting and marking for more details.

SEWING
To make the cleavage cookie, start by overlocking the edges of each foam layer. If you do not have an overlocker, you can use a zigzag stitch or the overlock stitch on your sewing machine. This stitching finishes and flattens the edges of the cookie.

Add a cleavage boosting cookie to your bra! #bramaking #brasewing #sewingpattern

Once the edges are finished, hand tack the foam layers together, one layer at a time, working from the largest layer to the smallest inside layer so they there are no stitch dimples on the outer most layer. Set cookies aside. While you could also create a fabric cover for the cookie, I think it adds a bit of awkwardness and bulk and I tend to skip that.

Add a cleavage boosting cookie to your bra! #bramaking #brasewing #sewingpattern

To make the pocket, turn under ¼” along the horizontal line and stitch using a coverstitch hem or zigzag stitch to finish and stabilize the edges while keeping them stretchy. Next, overlap the pieces so you have a pocket that exactly matches the outer cup fabric piece and baste together.

Add a cleavage boosting cookie to your bra! #bramaking #brasewing #sewingpattern

 

Add a cleavage boosting cookie to your bra! #bramaking #brasewing #sewingpattern

To attach the pocket, during cup construction, sew the pocket to the outer cup by sandwiching the inner cup between the fabric and pocket layers sewing the cup seam.

Add a cleavage boosting cookie to your bra! #bramaking #brasewing #sewingpattern

Add a cleavage boosting cookie to your bra! #bramaking #brasewing #sewingpattern

Add a cleavage boosting cookie to your bra! #bramaking #brasewing #sewingpattern

Add a cleavage boosting cookie to your bra! #bramaking #brasewing #sewingpattern

Topstitch the seam on the outer cup side as usual then baste the pocket to the outer cup along the wire line and underarm area and treat the outer cup as one unit throughout the rest of construction.

Add a cleavage boosting cookie to your bra! #bramaking #brasewing #sewingpattern

Add a cleavage boosting cookie to your bra! #bramaking #brasewing #sewingpattern

Once the bra is complete, you can insert the cleavage cookies for an extra bust boost! Remember, you can always reduce the number of foam layers if the boost is too much.

Add a cleavage boosting cookie to your bra! #bramaking #brasewing #sewingpattern

Add a cleavage boosting cookie to your bra! #bramaking #brasewing #sewingpattern

Et voilà!

Add a cleavage boosting cookie to your bra! #bramaking #brasewing #sewingpattern

Add a cleavage boosting cookie to your bra! #bramaking #brasewing #sewingpattern